The New Empire
It’s a typical Sunday afternoon: a bit tired, a bit hungover and hungry. Through the haze, we’re driving to H-Mart, the Korean supermarket in Niles, a western suburb of Chicago, for our ritual...
View ArticleImperio Inca
It was again in the heart of northeast Philadelphia that I discovered Peruvian cooking at El Balconcito—a very mixed up little restaurant that, in the context of the neighborhood, possessed a certain...
View ArticleSaikyo-yaki
Reading deeply on the spirit of old Japanese cooking I came across the preparation known as saikyo-yaki, grilled fish marinated—or, better yet, pickled—in a sauce of white miso. It reminded me...
View ArticleGolden Boy’s Endless Summer
Come winter, I can’t help but think that whatever cosmic force brought Chicago’s Southeast Asians to this hemisphere had a dark sense of humor. In the summer, they’re the ones laughing: on the hottest...
View ArticleSalsa Verde
On this side of the Atlantic, the term salsa verde calls to mind a sauce of tomatillos, chilis, and cilantro, which along with its companions, tortilla chips and Mexican beer, has spread throughout...
View ArticleFruits de la Mer
We launched the SS Shofu, a modest fishing vessel, in 2007 with little expertise, my father, brother, and I, thinking that because we were Japanese, fishing might come naturally to us. Since that time...
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